Planning a Trip to Shetland: What You Need to Know Before You Go

Lerwick, Shetland Islands
“As Vancouver Island locals, we’re drawn to remote coastlines and windswept landscapes – and Shetland feels like the northern edge of that same wild spirit”.

There are trips you plan… and then there are places that quietly call you.

For us, the Shetland Islands have long been on that second list.

Living on Vancouver Island, we’re no strangers to coastal weather, dramatic shorelines, and the feeling of being surrounded by the sea. But Shetland offers something even more remote — a place where Norse history, rugged cliffs, and North Atlantic winds shape daily life.

If you’re planning a trip to Shetland, here’s what you need to know before you go.

Where Are the Shetland Islands?

Shetland sits far north of mainland Scotland — closer to Norway than to London.

Fun Fact – Shetland was part of Norway for over 600 years, from the 9th century until 1469. It was then pledged to Scotland as part of a dowry. Intended to be temporary, the transfer became permanent when Scotland formally annexed the islands in 1472.

The capital town, Lerwick, is the main hub for visitors. But the real magic lies beyond town — along cliff edges, archaeological sites, and quiet coastal roads. And speaking of quiet roads, don’t forget a visit to Shetland’s Original Cake Fridge. Working on a honesty based system, it is open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Restocked daily with fresh cakes and bakes. Yum

Shetland is not a quick stop destination. It’s a place to settle into. A place to fully explore, and we intend to do so.

How to Get to Shetland

You have two main options:

✈ By Air

Flights run from several Scottish cities including:

  • Aberdeen
  • Edinburgh
  • Glasgow
  • Inverness

Flight time from mainland Scotland is about one hour.

🚢 By Ferry

Many travellers choose the overnight ferry from Aberdeen to Lerwick.

The ferry crossing takes around 12–14 hours and gives you the option of booking a cabin. It’s slower — but it feels like part of the adventure. And from what we’ve seen during our research, it can be quite the wild ride. Note to self, take a motion sickness tablet just in case. 🤢

You can bring your car, often the easiest option, or simply go as a walk-on.

When Is the Best Time to Visit Shetland?

Late spring through early autumn is ideal. Cruise ship season runs from April until October, with summer being its peak.

May is particularly lovely:

  • Long daylight hours
  • Fewer peak summer crowds
  • Puffins beginning to return
  • Cooler but manageable temperatures

Weather is unpredictable year-round. Expect wind — even on calm-looking days.

Layering and waterproof gear are essential.

Do You Need a Car in Shetland?

Short answer: Yes, if possible.

Public buses operate from Lerwick, but many of Shetland’s most impressive sites are spread out across the mainland and outer islands.

Having a car allows you to:

  • Explore coastal roads
  • Visit remote archaeological sites
  • Stop whenever the light changes
  • Travel at your own pace

For slow travellers like us, flexibility is everything.

If you don’t feel like driving, book a tour from a local guide. A much better option if your time is limited, and you just want to sit back and relax.

Bonus – nothing better than learning the history of a place than hearing it from a local. Their love for where they live always shines through in their stories.

Top Things to Do in Shetland

Explore Ancient Sites

Shetland is rich in history. Don’t miss:

  • Jarlshof – layered history from prehistoric to Viking
  • Clickimin Broch – an impressive Iron Age structure
  • Mousa Broch – best-preserved broch in Britain, and one of the finest prehistoric structures in Europe. Visitors can climb to the top of the 2,000-year-old stone tower.
  • St Ninian’s Isle – dramatic sand tombolo and scenic walk

If you love Orkney’s Neolithic sites, Shetland offers a different — but equally powerful — historical atmosphere.

Chase Coastal Views

Shetland’s cliffs are wild and cinematic.

Look for:

  • Seabird colonies
  • Dramatic sea stacks
  • Quiet coastal drives
  • Wind-swept walking trails

This is a landscape that feels raw and untamed.

How Long Should You Stay?

We recommend:

  • Minimum: 3 nights
  • Ideal: 4–6 nights

Shetland isn’t about rushing between highlights. It’s about allowing space for weather shifts, spontaneous detours, and slower mornings.

What to Pack for Shetland

Even in May or summer:

  • Waterproof jacket / rainpants
  • Warm layers
  • Comfortable walking shoes
  • Windproof outer layer
  • Small daypack
  • hat and gloves

If you’re used to coastal climates like we are on Vancouver Island, you’ll feel prepared — but Shetland’s wind deserves respect. We remember how strong, and cold, the wind can be from our trip to Orkney last year.

Is Shetland Worth Visiting?

If you love:

  • Remote landscapes
  • Norse and Iron Age history
  • Fewer crowds
  • Moody coastal photography
  • Slow, intentional travel

Then yes — absolutely.

Shetland feels like the edge of something. It’s quieter than the Isle of Skye and less visited than the Orkney Islands — but that’s part of its power.

Final Thoughts

Planning a trip to Shetland requires a little more intention than visiting mainland Scotland. But that’s exactly what makes it special. We find researching a place is half the fun. A teaser into what you can expect.

From one island-based couple to anyone dreaming of Scotland’s northernmost shores — Shetland is calling for a reason.

And we can’t wait to experience it!

Stonehaven to Dunnottar – One of Scotland’s Most Dramatic Castles

Scotland is filled with dramatic moments. Things that take your breath away. Cause you to stop, and wonder if you’re truly seeing what is before you. One of our favourite walks in Scotland is the coastal walk from Stonehaven to Dunnottar Castle. It’s the kind of experience that combines history, scenery, fresh sea air, and just enough adventure to make you feel like you’ve truly discovered something special.

If you’re visiting northeast Scotland, this walk is absolutely worth adding to your plans. Dunnottar truly is, one of Scotland’s most dramatic castles.

Starting in Stonehaven

Stonehaven itself is a lovely seaside town and the perfect place to begin the journey. From the harbour area, you can follow the coastal path south toward the cliffs. The route is well-marked and easy to follow, making it suitable for most walkers, though there are a few hills along the way. Just pace yourself, no need to rush. Enjoy the scenery along the way.

The walk takes around 30–45 minutes at a relaxed pace, but you’ll likely stop often to take photos. The views along the North Sea are stunning, with rugged cliffs, crashing waves, and seabirds soaring overhead. Nothing brings us feelings of home more than the sights and sounds of the sea.

First Glimpse of the Castle 🏰

The best part of the walk is when Dunnottar Castle suddenly comes into view. Sitting dramatically on a rocky headland, surrounded almost entirely by steep cliffs and the sea, it feels like something straight out of a movie. And Hollywood does love Dunnottar Castle. It was even the inspiration for the family castle in the animated film, Brave.

Even before reaching the castle entrance, there are several viewpoints along the path where you can stop and admire the ruins from afar. Honestly, some of our favourite photos were taken before we even arrived at the castle gates. Anticipation of what was to come!

Exploring Dunnottar Castle

Reaching the castle involves descending and then climbing a series of steps carved into the cliffside. It adds to the sense of adventure and makes arrival feel even more rewarding.

Once inside, you can wander through the remains of towers, halls, and defensive structures while learning about the castle’s long and dramatic history. Standing on the cliff edges, surrounded by endless sea views, it’s easy to imagine how powerful and strategic this place once was.

The setting alone makes it unforgettable.

Why We Loved This Walk

What made this experience special for us wasn’t just the castle itself, but the journey getting there. Walking the coastline, watching the waves below, and slowly seeing the castle appear ahead made the visit feel earned rather than simply driven to.

It’s peaceful, scenic, and deeply atmospheric — exactly the kind of travel moment we’re always chasing.

Tips for Visiting

  • Wear comfortable shoes — parts of the path are uneven.
  • Bring a jacket; coastal winds can be strong even on sunny days.
  • Allow extra time for photos and viewpoints. If you’re like us, we hate to miss a shot, the camera is always ready to capture them all.
  • Stop back in Stonehaven afterward for coffee or a bite by the harbour. Perfect setting for fish and chips. Better yet, a pint of beer overlooking the harbour, whilst eating fish and chips. Highly recommended by Richard.

A Walk We’d Do Again

Some places stick with you long after you leave, and this walk is definitely one of them. If you’re planning a trip through Scotland, the Stonehaven to Dunnottar Castle walk is one experience we’d happily repeat.

And honestly, we probably will.

Why We Fell in Love with the Orkney Islands

There are some places that impress you, and then there are places that stay with you long after you leave. For us, the Orkney Islands are firmly in the second category.

Sitting off Scotland’s northern coast, Orkney feels both remote and welcoming — a place where dramatic landscapes meet thousands of years of human history. We came for the famous ancient sites, but we left completely captivated by the islands themselves.

Orkney isn’t just somewhere you visit. It’s somewhere you feel. And it definitely provided all of that, and more.

Walking Through 5,000 Years of History

As self-confessed history lovers, Orkney had been high on our travel wish list for a long time. The islands hold some of Europe’s most important Neolithic sites, and seeing them in person was even more powerful than we imagined.

Standing in Skara Brae, a stone village built over 5,000 years ago, felt surreal. Walking through preserved homes, seeing ancient beds, storage spaces, and passageways, you suddenly realize how connected we are to people who lived thousands of years before us.

Skara Brae

Nearby, the Ring of Brodgar and Standing Stones of Stenness rise quietly from the landscape, surrounded by lochs and open skies. These sites feel both mysterious and peaceful, and simply standing among them gives you time to reflect on how long humans have called these islands home.

Ring of Brodgar

And then there’s Maeshowe, a chambered tomb older than the pyramids, where Viking runes carved into stone tell stories of later visitors who also stood in awe of this ancient place. We found it truly fascinating.

Few destinations make history feel so alive.

Maeshowe

Scenery That Feels Wild and Peaceful

Beyond the ancient sites, Orkney’s natural beauty surprised us just as much.

The islands are shaped by wind and sea, creating rugged coastlines, dramatic cliffs, and quiet beaches where you often find yourself completely alone. We loved nothing better than standing on a secluded beach, and taking it all in. Feeling all the feels. Changing light over the water, seabirds calling out, and wide open skies creating a feeling of calm that’s hard to describe. It’s the kind of place where you slow down without even trying.

To make it even better – we will share a secret. We like to completely immerse ourselves in those elements, sit on the beach, and play a favourite tune – “Still” by Beluga Lagoon. Close our eyes, turn up the volume, and just BE! Letting the stress and worries of life float away. You can’t help but truly feel alive – surrounded by the ocean and the lyrical sound of the music. Silliness or what, it sends shivers down our spines and is a great way to let go. This group was introduced to us by one of our Scottish tour guides. The group was founded by Scottish wildlife film-maker, Andrew O’Donnell.

A Different Kind of Scottish Experience

Orkney feels different from mainland Scotland. There’s a quieter rhythm here, and life seems deeply connected to the sea and the land.

The blend of Scottish and Viking history, friendly locals, and small harbour towns gives the islands a unique character. It never felt crowded or rushed — just welcoming and genuine.

We loved that exploring Orkney felt like discovery rather than tourism.

Would We Return?

Without hesitation — yes.

There are still coastal walks to explore, smaller islands to visit, and more history to uncover. Orkney feels like a place you could return to again and again and always find something new.

Tips for Visiting the Orkney Islands

If you’re considering a trip, here are a few things we found helpful:

  • Stay at least 3–4 days There’s more to see than you might expect, and the pace of the islands deserves time.
  • Rent a car Public transport is limited, and many of the best sites are spread out.
  • Book a tour See the sites with a local. Sit back, enjoy the scenery, and listen to their stories. Share in their love for their island.
  • Book accommodations early Options are limited and fill quickly, especially in summer.
  • Be ready for changing weather Sun, wind, and rain can all appear in the same day.

Why Orkney Stayed With Us

Some destinations impress you with beauty. Others amaze you with history. Orkney does both — and adds a quiet atmosphere that makes you feel connected to the past and present at the same time.

Long after leaving, we still find ourselves thinking about those windswept cliffs, ancient stone circles, and peaceful coastal roads.

And we know we’ll be back.

Exploring the Tower of London: History, Mysteries, and Must-Sees

Visiting the Tower of London feels like stepping straight into the pages of a history book. Standing tall beside the River Thames, this fortress has been many things over the centuries. A royal palace, prison, treasury, armory, and even a menagerie for exotic animals. Historically, menageries were typically aristocratic or royal collections. Today, it remains one of the most iconic historic sites in England—and a must-see when exploring London.

A Fortress of History

Built by William the Conqueror in the 11th century, the Tower has been at the heart of English history for nearly 1,000 years. Monarchs added to it, prisoners feared it, and legends continue to haunt it. Some of the most famous stories tied to the Tower include the imprisonment of Anne Boleyn, the Princes in the Tower, and tales of ghosts that still wander its halls. There are many stories to be told but do you dare enter the premises.

The Crown Jewels 👑

Perhaps the biggest highlight is the dazzling Crown Jewels. Safely guarded inside the Jewel House, these treasures are still used in royal ceremonies today. The sight of the Imperial State Crown and the Sovereign’s Sceptre up close is unforgettable.

Beefeaters & Ravens

No visit is complete without meeting the Yeoman Warders, also known as Beefeaters. They’ve guarded the Tower for centuries and share fascinating (and often chilling) stories on their tours. And don’t forget the ravens—legend has it that if they ever leave, the kingdom will fall! We’ve seen so many documentaries about the Tower of London but it is something else to see it up close and personal.

Tips for Visiting the Tower of London

  • Arrive early to avoid the biggest crowds, especially at the Crown Jewels.
  • Join a Beefeater tour—it’s both informative and entertaining.
  • Set aside at least 3 hours to explore everything, from the White Tower to the medieval walls.
  • Buy tickets in advance online to save time (and sometimes money).

Why We Loved It

For us, walking through the Tower was like walking through time. The mix of grandeur and grit, the sparkle of royal treasures alongside the shadows of prison stories—it’s the kind of place that makes history feel alive.

Whether you’re a history buff, a lover of royal stories, or just curious about one of London’s most famous landmarks, the Tower of London is well worth a visit.

✨ Have you ever been inside the Tower of London, or is it on your travel wishlist?

Kye Bay, Comox: A Peaceful Vancouver Island Beach Escape

Tucked just outside of Comox in the beautiful Comox Valley, Kye Bay is one of Vancouver Island’s most peaceful coastal treasures. Wide sandy shoreline, shallow waters, and incredible views across the Strait of Georgia. It’s the kind of place where time seems to slow down. A breath of fresh air in an otherwise chaotic life.

Whether you’re walking barefoot along the tide flats, exploring tidal pools, or simply sitting back to listen to the sound of the waves, Kye Bay captures the simple joy of island life. And Island life is what these travellers are all about.

Why Visit Kye Bay?

Kye Bay is known for its calm atmosphere and natural beauty. Unlike some of the busier beaches on Vancouver Island, it has a more laid-back and quiet feel. Perfect for those who enjoy peaceful moments by the sea.

  • Long sandy flats at low tide make it perfect for beach walks.
  • Shallow waters create a safe spot for families and casual wading.
  • Stunning coastal views stretch across to the mainland mountains. At times it looks as if you could walk across to the other side, or flag the ferry down when it sails past.

It’s a beach where you’ll often find more driftwood than people, which adds to its charm.

Things to Do at Kye Bay

There’s no shortage of simple pleasures to enjoy here. It reminds me of my childhood growing up on Vancouver Island.

  • Beachcombing – Discover seashells, driftwood, and natural treasures along the shoreline.
  • Tidal Pool Exploring – At low tide, you’ll find little pools filled with marine life waiting to be discovered. Watch the little crabs scurry away from your feet, the tiny fish swim by, and perhaps spot a sand dollar. Don’t forget to leave them all behind. They are living creatures and belong in the sea.
  • Picnics by the Water – Bring a blanket and enjoy lunch with a view of the ocean. Nothing better than a beach picnic. Everything tastes better in the sea air.
  • Relaxing Walks – Perfect for both sunrise and sunset, the soft sand and wide open beach make it ideal for a peaceful stroll.

Local Tips for Visiting

  • Best Time to Go: Low tide is the most impressive, revealing a vast sandy expanse and tide pools.
  • Footwear: Water shoes are handy if you’re exploring the rocky sections or tidal pools.
  • Amenities: Kye Bay is more rustic than some beaches, so bring snacks, water, and any beach gear you need.
  • Peaceful Vibe: It’s less crowded than other beaches in the Comox Valley, making it a great spot to unwind.

Getting to Kye Bay

Kye Bay is located just a few minutes from downtown Comox. Parking is available near the beach, and local signage makes it easy to find. The drive itself is a short and scenic one, especially if you’re exploring the Comox Valley area.

Final Thoughts

Kye Bay isn’t a flashy destination—it’s a place to simply be. With the sound of the waves, the salty ocean breeze, and the wide-open stretch of sand, it’s a reminder of what makes Vancouver Island so special. And these Islanders are happiest by the sea.

For us, Kye Bay is about slowing down, appreciating the moment, and feeling connected to the natural beauty that surrounds this island we call home.

🍺Whitby Brewery – A Pint with a View

If you’re visiting the Yorkshire coast, there’s one stop we’ll always make time for – Whitby Brewery. Nestled right beside the hauntingly beautiful Whitby Abbey, this independent brewery is one of our favourites in all of England.

A Brewery in the Shadow of the Abbey

Few pubs or breweries can boast a backdrop quite like this one. From the outside terrace you can sip your pint while gazing up at the gothic ruins of Whitby Abbey, the inspiration for Bram Stoker’s Dracula. It’s a view that makes every sip feel a little more special. And this is truly a special place.

What to Try

Whitby Brewery offers a rotating selection of their own craft beers, from crisp golden ales to rich stouts. Each brew is made on-site, and there’s something for everyone—whether you’re after a refreshing pint after a coastal walk or something darker to warm up with on a blustery Yorkshire day.

Why We Love It

We’ve visited Whitby several times, and this brewery has become a must-stop for us. There’s just something magical about enjoying a locally brewed beer in such a dramatic setting. It’s welcoming, relaxed, and feels like the heart of Whitby’s modern food and drink scene. Whitby has always been special to us, so much so that we named our first dog after it. Love having a wander through the town, then a hike up the stairs to the Abbey and Brewery. The view from the top is worth tackling the stairs. Take your time and enjoy the view.

Plan Your Visit

📍 Location: Whitby Brewery, next to Whitby Abbey

⏰ Opening times vary seasonally—check their website before you go.

🍺 Best for: A well-earned pint after exploring Whitby Abbey and the seaside town below. Plenty of walking and sightseeing to be had. The hike up the 199 stairs to the Abbey and Brewery is enough to make you thirsty. If you’re even more adventurous spend the day hiking the Cleveland Way to Robin Hood’s Bay, then stop in for a pint on the way back. The view from the cliffs is amazing.

Whether you’re a craft beer enthusiast or just looking for a unique place to relax, Whitby Brewery is a stop we can’t recommend enough. It’s beer with a view at its very best!

Walking in the Footsteps of 5,000 Years – Our Visit to the Ring of Brodgar, Orkney

The wind carried whispers across the heather as we stepped into the circle. Standing among the ancient stones of the Ring of Brodgar, we weren’t just in Orkney — we were in another time.

Getting There

The Ring of Brodgar sits proudly on Orkney’s Mainland, surrounded by lochs and rolling moorland. We reached it after a scenic drive around Orkney; and a visit to Orkney’s other Neolithic sites. We had spent the night in Kirkwall (Orkney’s largest city) after arriving by ferry from the mainland the day before. The site is well signposted, with a small parking area just a short walk from the stones. Best of all, it’s free to visit year-round, and accessible for most, though the path can be muddy after rain.

A Little History

Dating back around 5,000 years, the Ring of Brodgar is part of Orkney’s UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Heart of Neolithic Orkney. It’s one of the largest stone circles in the UK, thought to have been a ceremonial or ritual site. While the exact purpose is still shrouded in mystery, it’s linked to other ancient sites nearby, like the Stones of Stenness and the prehistoric village of Skara Brae.

Our Experience

The first thing we noticed was the wind. Orkney seems to have a special talent for it — the kind that sweeps through your hair and makes you feel alive. As we wandered between the towering stones, their weathered surfaces told silent stories of thousands of seasons gone by.

One moment, clouds cast dramatic shadows over the circle; the next, a burst of sunlight lit up the entire landscape. We felt small here — not in a bad way, but in the best possible way, as if we were part of something timeless.

Tips for Visitors

  • Best time to visit: Early morning or late evening for softer light and fewer visitors.
  • Weather: Dress for all seasons — even in summer, the wind can be fierce.
  • Combine your visit: Pair it with trips to the Stones of Stenness, Maeshowe, and Skara Brae for a full Neolithic experience. An experience I found overwhelming in so many ways, but in a good way. It is hard to fathom 5000 years ago, and there is so much more that they are still uncovering to this day.
  • Photography: Wide-angle shots capture the full circle, but don’t forget to zoom in on the beautiful stone textures.

Why We’ll Never Forget It

The Ring of Brodgar isn’t just a place you see — it’s a place you feel. It’s history you can walk through, touch, and hear in the rustle of the grass and the rush of the wind. Long after we left, we could still picture the stones standing silently against the Orkney sky, as they have for millennia.

If you ever find yourself in northern Scotland, let Orkney call you. And when it does, go stand in that circle and see what whispers the wind will carry to you. You won’t be disappointed.

Culloden Moor: Walking Through Scotland’s Last Battlefield

A Place Where History Changed Forever

In the windswept Highlands, just outside Inverness, lies Culloden Moor – Scotland’s last battlefield.  A quiet field that witnessed one of the most decisive and tragic moments in Scottish history.

On April 16, 1746, the Jacobite army, loyal to Prince Charles Edward Stuart (Bonnie Prince Charlie), met the government forces led by the Duke of Cumberland.

The battle was short, lasting less than an hour, but it claimed the lives of around 1,500 men — most of them Highlanders.

The defeat crushed the Jacobite cause and led to sweeping changes in the Highlands, forever altering Scottish culture and way of life.

The Battle in Brief

  • The Jacobite Cause: After marching deep into England in hopes of reclaiming the British throne, the Jacobites retreated to the Highlands in the harsh winter of 1745–46.
  • The Battlefield: Exhausted and underfed, the Highland forces faced well-rested, heavily armed government troops on the open moor — terrain that gave them no advantage.
  • The Outcome: In less than an hour, the Jacobite lines broke. Many survivors were hunted down in the days that followed.
  • The Aftermath: Traditional Highland dress and culture were suppressed, clan chiefs lost power, and the Highlands entered a period of harsh repression.

What to See at Culloden Today

1. The Memorial Cairn
Built in 1881, the large stone cairn stands at the centre of the battlefield as a solemn tribute to the fallen Highlanders.

2. The Clan Graves
Simple headstones mark the mass graves where members of clans such as Fraser, MacGillivray, MacLean, and others were buried. These stones are among the most moving sights on the moor.

3. Leanach Cottage
A thatched croft that survived the battle, Leanach Cottage offers a glimpse into 18th-century Highland life.

4. The Visitor Centre
Interactive displays, immersive battle simulations, and original artefacts bring the history to life. From weapons to personal stories, it’s a must-visit before stepping onto the moor itself.

The Atmosphere of the Moor

Culloden is not just a historic site — it’s an experience. The wind sweeps across the open land, carrying with it a deep stillness. The heather sways, the clouds roll in quickly, and you can almost hear echoes of the past. Many visitors describe feeling an unshakable sense of loss and respect as they walk among the stones.

Tips for Visiting Culloden

  • Best Time to Visit: Spring and early autumn offer mild weather and beautiful light for photography. Early morning or late afternoon is perfect for quiet reflection.
  • Allow Time: Set aside at least two hours — one for the visitor centre and one for walking the battlefield.
  • Dress for the Weather: The moor is exposed, so bring layers and waterproofs.
  • Nearby Sights: The prehistoric Clava Cairns are just a short drive away and well worth a visit.

Why Culloden Still Matters

Culloden marks the end of the Jacobite dream, but it also stands as a powerful reminder of resilience, culture, and the cost of war. Visiting this moor is not just about looking back — it’s about carrying those stories forward.

The Museum does an amazing job of taking you on a journey through the Jacobite Rising of 1745. We would highly recommend not rushing through this part. It gives you a better understanding of the battle from both the Jacobite and Government sides. Archaeological finds from the battlefield are also on display and have helped interpret important details from the battle.

Stepping outside and onto the the battlefield, you now have a better understanding of what happened that fateful day. You can see in your mind’s eye the battle as it unfolded. Do you hear the sounds of the battle carried on the wind?

Final Thought:
Culloden Moor is a place where history is etched into the land itself. Standing here, you don’t just read about the past — you feel it. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a lover of Scotland’s wild beauty, or someone tracing their clan roots, Culloden is a site that will stay with you long after you’ve left.

  • Clan Gravestones